Barrelfest…

Lots of pretty stoked people in camp after yesterday’s barrelfest… today’s a little bit smaller, but still looking good, but everyone in good spirits, despite a couple of creased boards, broken boards and broken fins…

I was just finishing lunch (fresh sweet and sour fish- yum) when I saw Mick the surf guide coming from the direction of the staff huts covered in blood… (for those of you who have been here, you’ll know that’s in the opposite direction of where you would come out after a surf)… he’d had a close encounter with the reef, and didn’t want to freak out girlfriend Annie, so had taken the scenic route to come and find me in the clubhouse to fix him up… The damage looked a lot worse than it actually was- a couple of stitches to the face/ head, a good scrub out of the reef scrape on his forehead and shoulder and a few other lacerations, and by the time Annie had heard of the mishap he was as good as new…

I asked Mick how it happened, and it was the result of ‘Just One More’ Sydrome… this occurs when a surfer has a perfectly good session, and instead of calling it a day and paddling in, succumbs to the phenomenon of Just One More… and that’s when it happened…

From what I can tell, this is one of the most frequent times that people do themselves an injury… we also see more injuries go down when it’s really big and sometimes people aren’t experienced enough to surf what’s out there, on really good days when people surf til exhaustion (sometimes with a little Just One More in the mix as well), and on the first day of waves after a slow period when there’s a lot of people in water, or on smaller days when guys are trying out new moves….and of course, there’s just the odd freaky accident as well…

That’s it from me for now…

Preeti
Resident Doc, Joyo’s Surf Camp, G-land

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