this guys from germany called Mario that learn surfing two years before but really good to be such short time; he paddle out at money threes the last day of the 6 foot swell staying on the side just to look at the waves; but after a while with less crowd and higther tide he tried to get some waves, and he got some of the best waves of his life; i saw him in the water he was stocked! he could not stop and he stayied in the water too long and on the last waves coming in instead to go straight he tried to jump behind the lip that smashed him on the reef. the scare was not too bad and not deep, but two parts need some stiches (around 15) to give him the possibility to come back in the water in few days. The situation was fun because if was happy for the session (may be the best session of his life) and he was smiling all the time (very good pazient), and we were jocking about the tatoo on is back to remember that day!
please check the grammatical error and change the form too, i now know my english is bad!