Winds up and swell dropping a little, but we managed a few good waves the past few days. Our eternally stoked Dutchman Nils claims to have had one of the best surfs of his life yesterday morning, cleaning up at Kongs with only one other person out. The rest of us had unfortunately elected for a lie in and breakfast so missed the morning glass off – lesson to be learnt I think!
Had my first patient yesterday (who incidentally is the first Italian surfer I’ve met); perforated his eardrum. Out of bluetac but fortunately someone had a really good earplug which is pretty much watertight. Also had my second patient; me. Stupidly took my booties off with only a few yards left to go and manged to slice up both my feet. Well done you dick – lesson number 2 I think.
Otherwise, things are sweet. Had a few good sessions down at tiger tracks with probably the funniest man in Indonesia, Made. An excellent singer and an even better driver, the ‘car’ is now unfortunately now broken after one too many bumps at high speed. Therefore stuck surfing the main break – no biggie.
There’s been a bit of a mass exodus the past few days. The end camp has shut and 12 people have left here with only 3 in. Swell looks like it should hit Monday, so hopefully some more folk will head on out.
Over and out.
Resident Doctor, Joyo’s Surf Camp, G-land